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Dr. Jekyll, Meet Mr. Bailey


Baileys Full ExteriorI wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t experienced it myself — three times now — but McDonalds/Patrizio magnate Ed Bailey has turned around his once-flailing steakhouse concept, a feat that is nothing short of unbelievable.

His Park Lane outpost of Bailey’s Prime Plus is nothing like the Cedar Hill store–and that’s a good thing. Though it only opened September 15, the food is already over-the-top good.

A new management team  and a pair of seasoned steakhouse chefs have breathed new life into the concept. The kitchen is run by chefs Chris Meier (formerly of Capital Grille) and Izzy Voirin (formerly of Nick and Sam’s).

On all three of my recent visits, each of the steaks arrived properly cooked. They’re expensive, though, which must be what the “plus” in Bailey’s Prime Plus means. Steaks top out around $50. The beef is sourced from prime-haven Allen Brothers in Chicago, probably the best prime beef purveyor in the business. While my preference for dry-aged beef runs deep, there was nothing disappointing about any of the steaks I tried at Baileys. Rib eye, strip, filet — all were excellent. I couldn’t say that about my experience at the Cedar Hill Bailey’s when it opened a few months ago.

Side dishes are exceptional, too. Lump crab cakes as big as hockey pucks, crispy-crunchy onion rings, decadent lobster mac and cheese, creamed spinach, sweet creamed corn scraped from the cob — there’s no way to leave Bailey’s hungry.

The space is huge:  12,000 square feet, 25-foot ceilings (no gold leaf this time), an interior reflecting pool with animatronic trees (ok, not really; they just stand still). This Bailey’s Prime Plus seats 600 people, which can leave the place feeling cavernous when the dining room isn’t full but buzzing with energy when it’s packed. There’s also a good bar scene with beautiful people and sexy lounge singers. (Scroll through the pictures below for a sense of this place.)

Sommelier Jeff Ivy’s wine list is, I hope, a work in progress. The by-the-glass selection needs the most help; you know you’re in for a rocky ride when the premier wine on that list is the Zin-centric Paraduxx–offered at a hefty $26 a glass. To become the top draw that Ed Bailey hopes his Prime Plus empire will become, the list needs fairer prices, more variety, maybe a red and a white Bordeaux, maybe even Steve Reynolds’ amazingly affordable California Cab.

Tough location, too–difficult to find if you’re not familiar with the shopping center.

But here’s the bottom line:  It’s worth the effort to find this Bailey’s Prime Plus.

UPDATE: Chef Chris Meier has resigned from Bailey’s Prime Plus. Izzy Voirin continues to lead the kitchen.

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2 Comments

  1. Reagen    10/7/2009

    After much debate and flip-flopping, we decided on Bailey’s for our dining destination last night (and boy, what a destination it turned out to be!). First step inside this sprawling eatery, I was immediately transported to Las Vegas. A restaurant of this grandeur belongs on the strip rather than in the Big D. From the water features to the black and gold motif, this is a beautiful restaurant. And the bar…sexy! Red crystal chandeliers, black lacquer floors and nude art draping the walls screams “new Dallas hot-spot”!

    The food was good. Steaks, perfectly seasoned and prepared, being the best part of of dinner (as they should be), appetizers somewhat disappointed. The almond-encrusted fried brie was glorified fired cheese sticks and the chicken-fried lobster stuffed avocado lacked a reasonable amount of lobster (4 tiny pieces to be exact). But dont let me get you wrong, we ate every bit of both appetizers! Order the lobster bisque and you will be licking the bowl for every last drop!

    Special thanks to Mr. Ivy (the sommelier) for the great wine recommendation. Never before this night had I tried a white from Chateauneuf -du-Pape. I was looking for a unique white and he definitely steered me in the right direction!

  2. Jeff Ivy    9/29/2009

    I hope you don’t mean by your review that I should have a white and red Bordeaux by the glass. I have plenty of those by the bottle if guests wish but they usually don’t order them by the glass. If by “work in progress” you mean we need more than 600 selections on the list I’ll give you that. We have 600 right now with a great selection. The list is getting great complements. I’ve built “Best of Award of Excellence” lists in the past and I’ll put this one up against any of those as to selection, quality and price. My prices beat the other steak houses in the Metroplex so I have no idea what you are talking about as far as pricing. From what I can gather you really don’t know wine prices and you just took a look at the by the glass page and made a snap judgment. I do respect what you do so do me the favor and respect the thoughtful decisions wine buyers make before you make snap comments. The Paraduxx is our biggest seller by the glass.

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