Oct
Radar Range: The Best Dallas Chef You’ve Never Heard Of
He’s the best chef you’ve probably never heard of; that’s how I describe Michael Gaspard to those who ask me about my favorites.
His cooking is inventive, unpredictable, and polished. His slow-roasted waygu beef with cepe fondont and red wine glaze? As good–and unexpected–as it gets. Ditto his prime rib, duck, lamb, chicken. There’s almost nothing he can’t whip up that’s not world-class. When he gets in the kitchen, watch out: he’s going to knock your socks off.
Where is his restaurant? He doesn’t have one.
Gaspard works for the Pappas family of restaurants (Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Pappadeaux, Pappasitos, among others), and his job is to travel to their concepts, creating and executing menus for special events like wine dinners.
The lastest occasion I’ve had to admire Gasard’s talent occurred last weekend, when he and Pappas Bros. execuchef James Johnson whipped up a dinner to pair with a half-dozen Robert Mondavi wines for one of Pappas Bros. occasional wine dinners. Chef Johnson is certainly no slouch–but when he teams with Gaspard, the duo is usually unflappable, which is what they proved with their olive oil-poached tuna.
Here was the menu:
Hors d’Oeuvres
1994 Robert Mondavi “To Kalon Vineyard”
Reserve Fume Blanc – from 3 Liter
First Course
olive oil poached TUNA
crispy chorizo, fingerling potato, crushed hazelnut
2007 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve”
Napa Valley Chardonnay
2006 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve”
Napa Valley Pinot Noir
Second Course
smoked LAMB carpaccio
fennel “En Barigoule”, preserved lemon, arugula
1974 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve”
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
1979 Robert Mondavi Winery
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
2005 Robert Mondavi Winery Oakville
Cabernet Sauvignon
Third Course
charred prime RIBEYE
foie gras-chanterelle bread pudding,
baby garlic spinach, red wine-brown butter
1984 Opus One Napa Valley – from Magnum
1995 Opus One Napa Valley – from Magnum
Dessert Course
muscat braised PINEAPPLE
white chocolate, passion fruit, corriander
2006 Robert Mondavi Winery Moscato d’Oro, Napa Valley
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Food & Wine Events
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Eating the Road
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1 Comment
It totally stinks that I had to miss this event. Get this: I’ve been reading The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine Dynasty. No time or pocket change for this dinner, so-so sadly. It sounds likei t was fabulous, and I’m glad the featured radar range wasn’t the method of cookery.
As for the book, it’s pretty fascinating stuff: omewhere between Falcon Crest and Who Wants to Marry a Millionaire. But there is actually a lot of notable wine history, including the founding of Opus One, the start of the Chilean fine wine industry, etc. We sometimes forget that the Mondavis were pivotal in establishing and growing Napa Valley as a leading wine region.