No surprise, but some of the first wild Copper River salmon to hit Dallas was served at the Mansion on Turtle Creek on May 17, which was the first week of the CR salmon commercial fishing season. Chef Bruno Davaillon slow roasted the King fillets, then teamed them with spring peas, morel mushrooms and a dollop of truffle butter, all bathed in a light mushroom broth. Was it good? Yes, but surprisingly not revelatory; sort of like a new used car.
This weekend, I cooked Copper River salmon at home for some friends, and it was New Car good.
As you probably know, I’ve been playing with my Sous Vide Supreme nonstop since December. If you’ve watched Food Network in the last few years–or eaten at The Mercury–you’re probably familiar with the restaurant technique that involves low temp cooking of foods sealed in plastic bags. The vacuum part of sous vide (which means “under vacuum”) isn’t so important–the vacuum just ensures that the plastic contacts the food surface so that the heat of the water bath can be uniformly conducted to the food.
If you don’t have a Sous Vide Supreme, you can achieve a similar effect (for this dish, anyway), by filling a heavy pot with 125 F water, monitoring the temperature with a thermometer, and turning on the burner if the temperature drops a couple of degrees.
Here’s a filmstrip, like in grade school years ago. You’ll need to supply your own beep.