This Way In >>

abacus dallas wild mushroom salad with grilled radicchio, watercress, quail egg

Abacus rolls out new menu, intros new chef (Daniel Burr)


abacus dallas wild mushroom salad with grilled radicchio, watercress, quail egg

abacus dallas wild mushroom salad with grilled radicchio, watercress, quail egg

Kent Rathbun has nothing left to prove. The chef and owner of Abacus, Jasper’s and Blue Plate Kitchen demonstrated that last week, when he asked me to stop in to Abacus to see what’s new. Thanks in large part to the Asian-inspired cuisine he’s turned out for years at Abacus (which I awarded five stars when I reviewed it a few years ago for the Dallas Morning News), Rathbun stands tall among the luninaries of the Dallas dining scene.

So what’s new? A little and a lot.

Rathbun knows not to mess with a good thing. Though Daniel Burr is now the restaurant’s chef de cuisine, Burr and Rathbun continue to find ways to keep the menu relevant and vibrant without scaring away legions of local fans.

The duo’s newest menu is riddled with dozens of gutsy combinations, like pork tenderloin glazed with citrus and rosemary and ruby red beet demi. Big, plump scallops arrive with a drizzle of pumpkin seed oil and a vinegary pop of red grape mustard. There’s even a dinner version of eggs Benedict, except in Burr’s version, which he calls “eggs Bene-duck,” Burr drapes a tall buttermilk biscuit with housemade duck ham, a sunny side up quail egg, a spoonful of tangy hollandaise and a drizzle of maple syrup. Looking for grilled antelope? You’ll find it under Big Plates, where the Texas wild game shares a plate with smoked cranberry gastrique and creamed Brussels sprouts.

Abacus is as stylish and romantic as ever. The soft, elegant lighting makes everyone look like they’re stars on a movie set, which isn’t much of a stretch given Abacus’ whispered reputation as a celebrity hangout. (Ask for table 24 or 25, two circular banquettes tucked into the more private side dining room, and watch the rest of the restaurant gooseneck for a peek as they walk by.)

4511 McKinney Avenue  Dallas, (214) 559-3111 

 

Recently Published

Nick Sams sunday supper by MIchael Hiller
»

DFW Weekend eating highlights include Nick & Sam’s Sunday Supper, Fort Worth Food & Wine Festival

This weekend is bookended by two stellar food events. The Fort Worth ...

Chef Littman
»

Organic heirloom blackberries from JW Marriott San Antonio’s gardens spill into mojitos, muffins, more in May

Like that alliteration? One more: We’re barely one week into ...

2015_Chili_graphic
»

Good Local Markets throwing chili cook at Vickery Meadow farmers’ market on Sunday, April 19

Think your chili is blue ribbon worthy? Or just like to eat other ...

1847 chateau y'quem bottle
»

Pappas Bros. Steakhouse now has world’s most expensive wine, a $56,000 stunner

Last weekend, I joined some out-of-town friends for dinner at ...

54th grill
»

KC-based 54th Street Drafthouse to open in Las Colinas in April

Kansas City-based 54th Street Grill will enter the DFW market next ...

dee lincoln steak sign
»

Dee Lincoln closing her Steak & Burger Bar in Dallas, won’t open Highland Park restaurant, Fort Worth steakhouse on hold

Dee Lincoln said today that she will shutter her Dee Lincoln Steak ...

Tesar's burgers at Knife are a rowdy crowd
»

Fort Worth Food & Wine Festival returns for second year, headlining stellar Burgers, Brews & Blues party on March 29

...

www.reserverestaurantmaleny.com.au;
»

This Way Out: Australia’s Reserve Restaurant Maleny

Escape Hatch contributor April Orcutt spent a few days Down Under and ...

article image
»

Big chef changes at the Dallas Omni Hotel

Jason Weaver, the long-time exec chef at the Dallas Omni Hotel in ...