This restaurant’s best kept secret is its handmade tamales

Tamale season kicks off in late fall but it punches into hyperdrive at Christmas. The best masa gems we’ve had this season are served at Mesero, but they won’t be on the menu much longer. Mesero’s tamales are hefty, five-bite numbers filled with spicy pork that’s been slowly simmered with guajillo chiles. Good friends take you to Mesero and buy you a two-tamale plate for lunch or dinner; great friends bring a dozen to your home.