The chilaquiles, enchiladas and beans at Fondita La Pecosa are the real deal. And you’ll never guess where.

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There are two types of chilaquiles in this town: those made by Olga Vianney Rodriguez and those that are not made by Olga Vianney Rodriguez. Once you’ve tasted hers at Fondita La Pecosa, I think you’ll agree that a plate of chilaquiles topped with a shower of queso crumbles and tucked beside a pool of creamy frijoles is worth a return visit. 

Crispy and crunchy and chewy in all the right places, Rodriguez tumbles fresh corn tortillas in a spicy from-scratch salsa rojo that walks a tightrope between hot and heavenly. But don’t stop at the chilaquiles. Order her excellent enchiladas verdes, a foursome of white corn tortillas packed with cheese then topped with more cheese. Let a little of the tart tomatillo salsa drip onto some of those beans, maybe spill a bit on the side of cumin-spiced rice. Chase it with a bite of a gordita or a few sips from a bowl of caldo de res (then pack the rest to go).

There’s nothing complicated or fussy about the food — “It’s just simple Mexican cooking,” Rodriguez says. “I make everything from scratch every day. Nothing gets held over to the next day.”

How often do you say to your friends, “I wish I could find a real, authentic Mexican place around here.” Well, Fondita La Pecosa is the real deal. It’s inexpensive, open Thursdays through Sundays, and tucked inside a most unlikely location (as all the best secret spots are) — Harry Hines Bazaar — in a semi-permanent stall near a boot shop, a hairdresser and parakeet vendor. And that means you can do a little shopping for “real, authentic” knock-offs while you’re there.

10788 Harry Hines Blvd., Dallas. 214-539-7369.