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Chef David McMillan Retools Menu at Screen Door


Chef David McMillan, the top toque of Screen Door in One Arts Plaza, has intro’d a new summer menu that elevates the Southern-styled restaurant from humble to haute.

McMillan, formerly the chef of the Anatole’s five-star Nanna Grill (now called Nanna) before launching his own short-lived resto in Colleyville, Screen Door now offers a menu of “jars, small plates, in-between plates and big plates” that range from a surprisingly creamy “hummus” constructed with boiled peanuts rather than chickpeas, to a filet of red snapper served over a crab-corn-okra-tomato succotash that demonstrated McMillan hasn’t lost his fine dining touch.

As an invited guest at a small gathering this week, I sampled some of the new items. New to the menu: veal sweetbreads with hominy flan and roasted shitakes; a simple stew of rabbit, broccoli rabe and tiny spaetzle, all served in a cast iron skillet; and a quinnelle of bison tartar enriched with capers, mustard, lemon and topped with a quail’s egg.

Here’s the scratch-and-sniff. Move in close…

beef filet on creamed onions

beef filet on creamed onions

 

 

 

 

snapper on soccotash

 

 

 

 

bison tartare

 

 

 

 

Chef David McMillan with rabbit and rabe

 

 

 

 

veal sweetbreads

veal sweetbreads on hominy flan

 

 

 

 

Boiled peanut hummus with harissa

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Classic Manhattan

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

bar infusions

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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