1PD: Bolsa’s roasted chicken with fiddlehead ferns, spring peas

Remember the Seinfeld scene where Frank Costanza goes all chicken scratch with George’s future in-laws?

Frank Costanza:   Let me understand, you got the hen, the chicken and the rooster. The rooster goes with the chicken. So, who’s having sex with the hen?

George Costanza:   Why don’t we talk about it another time.

Frank Costanza:   But you see my point here? You only hear of a hen, a rooster and a chicken. Something’s missing!

Mrs. Ross:   Something’s missing all right.

Mr. Ross:   They’re all chickens. The rooster has sex with all of them.

Frank Costanza:   That’s perverse.

Know which chickens aren’t bonding with a rooster? The ones chefs Jeff Harris and Matt Balke and owner Chris Zielke serve at Bolsa. Bolsa’s chickens are too good for that. They’re pristine beauties, blessed with crispy skin, ginger-brined interiors, and a BeDazzle of fiddlehead ferns, spring peas and potatoes. For added drama, they luxuriate in a simple mustard jus.

One perfect dish.

Bolsa, 614 West Davis St., Dallas, (214) 943-1883