Chef David McMillan Retools Menu at Screen Door

Chef David McMillan, the top toque of Screen Door in One Arts Plaza, has intro’d a new summer menu that elevates the Southern-styled restaurant from humble to haute.

McMillan, formerly the chef of the Anatole’s five-star Nanna Grill (now called Nanna) before launching his own short-lived resto in Colleyville, Screen Door now offers a menu of “jars, small plates, in-between plates and big plates” that range from a surprisingly creamy “hummus” constructed with boiled peanuts rather than chickpeas, to a filet of red snapper served over a crab-corn-okra-tomato succotash that demonstrated McMillan hasn’t lost his fine dining touch.

As an invited guest at a small gathering this week, I sampled some of the new items. New to the menu: veal sweetbreads with hominy flan and roasted shitakes; a simple stew of rabbit, broccoli rabe and tiny spaetzle, all served in a cast iron skillet; and a quinnelle of bison tartar enriched with capers, mustard, lemon and topped with a quail’s egg.

Here’s the scratch-and-sniff. Move in close…