Billy Can Can is a cool, sexy new place to drink in Victory Park, but the food is uneven

Victory Park developer Tristan Simon once ruled Henderson Avenue, creating and operating such notable spots as Hibiscus, The Porch, Victor Tangos and Fireside Pies. Now he’s trying his hand at awakening sleepy Victory Park with last month’s debut of Billy Can Can, the first of several food and drink concepts he has planned for the development surrounding American Airlines Center.

Ornate mirrors, reclaimed wood floor planks and retro fixtures telegraph that Billy Can Can is more modern saloon than upscale restaurant, though chef Matt Ford (Americano, CBD Provisions, Craft Dallas) would hope you think otherwise.

Early visits were uneven, even setting aside the silly backstory about a fictitious bon vivant named Billy Can Can. But Ford’s menu — a mashup of Texan, French and Mexican cuisines — has strong appeal.

Settle into a corner booth, order a Gristmill (wheated bourbon, blue corn whiskey, sweet vermouth and lemon oil) and keep your fingers crossed that the crudo of red snapper, Texas peaches and citrus-basil vinaigrette is still on the menu when you visit. If it’s not? Order a second Gristmill.

2386 Victory Park Ln., Dallas; (214) 272-9082.

A version of this piece appears in the August issue of 360 West Magazine