Team behind Shinsei debuts new seafood restaurant and market

is the latest project from two ladies who know a lot about seafood.

Shinsei owners Tracy Rathbun and Lynae Fearing have added this well-bred seafood restaurant and fresh fish market to a well-bred neighborhood that already includes Shinsei (around the corner), Neighborhood Services (across the street) and Trader Joe’s (around the bend, in case you can’t find something you like at the other two).

The partners brought on Abacus alum Aaron Staudenmaier to create and execute a casual, sophisticated menu that features not only impeccably fresh seafood but excellent libations — like an authentic rum-and-grapefruit-based Hemingway daiquiri and Darioush cabernet by the glass.

However you fancy your fish– grilled, sautéed, fried, blackened — Staudenmaier has you covered. On opening night, there wasn’t a tilapia in sight, and there won’t be, either. Instead, John Dory, Scottish salmon and red snapper took top billing.

This being Dallas, there’s also a burger and ahi tuna poke, but also fried oysters with bacon and spinach, terrific crab cakes, thick chunks of battered fresh cod (as fish and chips), a sweet-and-spicy hot chicken biscuit duo and, for dessert, peanut butter pie.

Like something enough to try your hand at it at home? A seafood counter debuts this week with plenty of restaurant quality fish — trimmed and portioned for cooking at home.