This Way In >>

Billy Can Can is a cool, sexy new place to drink in Victory Park, but the food is uneven


Victory Park developer Tristan Simon once ruled Henderson Avenue, creating and operating such notable spots as Hibiscus, The Porch, Victor Tangos and Fireside Pies. Now he’s trying his hand at awakening sleepy Victory Park with last month’s debut of Billy Can Can, the first of several food and drink concepts he has planned for the development surrounding American Airlines Center.

Ornate mirrors, reclaimed wood floor planks and retro fixtures telegraph that Billy Can Can is more modern saloon than upscale restaurant, though chef Matt Ford (Americano, CBD Provisions, Craft Dallas) would hope you think otherwise.

Early visits were uneven, even setting aside the silly backstory about a fictitious bon vivant named Billy Can Can. But Ford’s menu — a mashup of Texan, French and Mexican cuisines — has strong appeal.

Settle into a corner booth, order a Gristmill (wheated bourbon, blue corn whiskey, sweet vermouth and lemon oil) and keep your fingers crossed that the crudo of red snapper, Texas peaches and citrus-basil vinaigrette is still on the menu when you visit. If it’s not? Order a second Gristmill.

2386 Victory Park Ln., Dallas; (214) 272-9082.

A version of this piece appears in the August issue of 360 West Magazine

Recently Published

»

Meridian restaurant makes a significant menu pivot. What’s next?

The Meridian restaurant in Dallas’ The Village neighborhood ...

»

Team behind Fort Worth’s Grace restaurant opens an all-Italy dining spot called 61 Osteria

A new upscale Italian restaurant from a couple of ...

»

Dallas chef Dean Fearing’s son needs our help!

Dallas chef Dean Fearing’s 22-year-old son Campbell is battling an ...

»

Dallas loses big-deal steakhouse Maple & Ash, but owners settle dispute that impacts Monarch restaurant

Mired for months of legal battles over ownership, the owners of ...

»

Chicago’s Portillo’s is now open in DFW, selling its famous hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches and chocolate cake shakes

Chicago’s Portillo’s restaurant has finally opened for ...

»

Nitro Burger in Trinity Groves delivers terrific burgers and boozy shakes

Anyone who’s been to Beto & Son in Trinity Groves knows Julian ...

»

Cozy up to crazy good Mexican food at El Carlos Elegante, the Dallas Design District newcomer

El Carlos Elegante is an elegant new Latin American restaurant in ...

»

Here’s a cool-weather gift for “Yellowstone” fans

Fans of the modern Western tv drama Yellowstone can take a fashion ...

»

Porchetta and figs star in North Italia’s fall menu additions

North Italia restaurants in Dallas and Plano have introduced new ...