This Way In >>

crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

John Tesar hits an early home run with Spoon Bar and Kitchen


crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

a puff of smoke blankets smoked scallop crudo topped with salmon roe and herbs

red wine poached octopus, hand-rolled penne pasta, marinara and bone marrow

housemade squid ink pasta with little neck clams, nantucket bay scallops, lemon, garlic, olive oil

that amazing grilled octopus

big eye tuna, pounded thin, draped over foie gras, toasted baguette, plus a confetti of chives

Bad-boy chef John Tesar‘s new Dallas restaurant, Spoon Bar & Kitchen, really wowed me a couple of nights ago. Comfy seafoam hues, cozy alcoves, counter seating right up front, a chef’s counter in the back, a simple, two-page, seafood-centric menu that’s a crazy quilt of fresh fish and shellfish. And no drama. Service is crisp and precise, the bar man knows how to pour a stiff drink, and the kitchen operates with a quiet, organized buzz.

While I was eating dinner at Spoon, the electromagnetic spectrum was buzzing with the national broadcast of Top Chef Seattle, on which Tesar was the evening’s impetuous star. Yet there was nary a peep from Tesar about the show. No celebratory toasts, no throng of supporters crowding around a tv. In fact, there’s no tv in the restaurant. Instead, Tesar propped his glasses on his forehead and got down to business, cooking, grilling, plating, chatting.

On the way out, I asked Tesar about the show and why he hadn’t brought it up.

“This restaurant really is my focus,” he told me. “Nothing is more important to me than making Spoon successful.”

If Tesar can keep the same level of focus and precision I experienced at Spoon, his new seafood boite will rise to the top of the Dallas restaurant scene.

Of the may dishes I tried, one of my favorite dishes of the 20 or so I sampled: the charred octopus with crisp, sweet pork belly and pequillo peppers. The crudo sampler is the best raw seafood dish in town. But really, almost everything thrilled. Go. You will be impressed.

Spoon Bar & Kitchen, 8220 Westchester Drive, Dallas, (855) 947-7666.

Recently Published

eagle eye
»

Here’s what happens when you strap a GoPro to an eagle

Drones are so 2014. Next year, we’ll be using action cameras ...

kent rathbun from FB
»

Kent Rathbun to open Hickory Kitchen in Plano

Chef Kent Rathbun (Abacus, Jasper’s) spilled the beans on ...

fish tacos from coconut's
»

Maui’s best fish tacos are now available in Dallas, at Coconut’s Fish Cafe

For a two-page story in the Dallas Morning News a couple of years ...

dallas-chop-house-by-michaael-hiller-3
»

Dallas Chop House rolls out barrel-aged drinks to pair with dry-aged steaks

Dallas Chop House barman Brandon Durrett has created a new line of ...

standard-pour-copyright-michael-hiller-4
»

Spotlight: The Common Table, a real-deal gastropub in Uptown

...

Frosted Art Bakery Full-Size Christmas Tree Cake copy
»

Dallas’ Frosted Art Bakery selling Christmas treats through Neiman Marcus, so you can ship some sugar love anywhere

From now until January 1, you can send Frosted Art’s’ sweet ...

cakebread
»

Sevy’s Grill teaming up with Cakebread Cellars for wine dinner Monday, December 15

The uber-cool Sevy’s Grill in Preston Hollow is teaming ...

tj lengnick
»

Chef TJ Lengnick has left Shinsei to open new restaurant with former Jasper’s GM Johnny Carros

T.J. Lengnick, the longtime chef of Shinsei, has left the popular ...

bourbon smores pie
»

Is this Bourbon S’mores Pie the best in the world?

If you’re still undecided about what dessert goes best with, ...