This Way In >>

crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

John Tesar hits an early home run with Spoon Bar and Kitchen


crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

a puff of smoke blankets smoked scallop crudo topped with salmon roe and herbs

red wine poached octopus, hand-rolled penne pasta, marinara and bone marrow

housemade squid ink pasta with little neck clams, nantucket bay scallops, lemon, garlic, olive oil

that amazing grilled octopus

big eye tuna, pounded thin, draped over foie gras, toasted baguette, plus a confetti of chives

Bad-boy chef John Tesar‘s new Dallas restaurant, Spoon Bar & Kitchen, really wowed me a couple of nights ago. Comfy seafoam hues, cozy alcoves, counter seating right up front, a chef’s counter in the back, a simple, two-page, seafood-centric menu that’s a crazy quilt of fresh fish and shellfish. And no drama. Service is crisp and precise, the bar man knows how to pour a stiff drink, and the kitchen operates with a quiet, organized buzz.

While I was eating dinner at Spoon, the electromagnetic spectrum was buzzing with the national broadcast of Top Chef Seattle, on which Tesar was the evening’s impetuous star. Yet there was nary a peep from Tesar about the show. No celebratory toasts, no throng of supporters crowding around a tv. In fact, there’s no tv in the restaurant. Instead, Tesar propped his glasses on his forehead and got down to business, cooking, grilling, plating, chatting.

On the way out, I asked Tesar about the show and why he hadn’t brought it up.

“This restaurant really is my focus,” he told me. “Nothing is more important to me than making Spoon successful.”

If Tesar can keep the same level of focus and precision I experienced at Spoon, his new seafood boite will rise to the top of the Dallas restaurant scene.

Of the may dishes I tried, one of my favorite dishes of the 20 or so I sampled: the charred octopus with crisp, sweet pork belly and pequillo peppers. The crudo sampler is the best raw seafood dish in town. But really, almost everything thrilled. Go. You will be impressed.

Spoon Bar & Kitchen, 8220 Westchester Drive, Dallas, (855) 947-7666.

Recently Published

sprezza--5
»

Dinner plans tonight? Good – you’re going to Sprezza for Italian

Two steps beyond the front door of Sprezza, the casual new ...

spam truck
»

This famous Dallas chef will be serving SPAM corny dogs from a food truck

Dean Fearing is one of the founding father’s of Southwestern ...

knuckle
»

Grab free food, cheap drinks at premiere of Knuckle Sandwich Co., new from barman “Lucky” Campbell

Eddie “Lucky” Campbell announced today that he and his ...

super secret alien rendering of the new Nosh, in Plano, as seen with X-rays
»

Tristan Simon, founder of Hibiscus, Fireside Pies and CBD Provisions, is opening a new restaurant in Dallas

Tristan Simon, once the high-flying restaurateur behind Hibiscus, The ...

your gps will get you lost, so know that the main entrance is not visible from the street
»

Nilton “Junior” Borges, the executive chef of FT33, has resigned

Another notable Dallas chef is rolling up his knifes and heading out ...

Never trust a chef who won't eat his own food.
»

John Tesar, Aphelia Restaurant Group (Oak, Bolero, Royale Magnificent Burgers) have parted ways

If you want drama — in real life, on television or ...

josemeza
»

Guest chef taking over Fearing’s kitchen for important Cinco de Mayo dinner

Eric Dreyer, the chef de cuisine at Fearing’s restaurant in the ...

142A8488
»

Shinsei restaurant in Dallas has a new top chef

Shinsei restaurant has a new chef. He’s Carlos Capistran, ...

Robert Lyford_Patina Green
»

McKinney’s top chef is hosting a Texas beer dinner this weekend

I am crazy about chef Robert Lyford’s cooking and Patina ...