This Way In >>

the campy interior of Dragonfly

Dragonfly at Hotel ZaZa intro’s new fall menu, but star is F&B guy Alex Aland


 

the campy interior of Dragonfly

Dan Landsberg is the chef of Dragonfly

Dragonfly's scallops with ramen noodles and bacon-dashi broth

Hotel ZaZa's F&B director, Alex Aland, is a really really good somm.

Ok, I’ll admit it right up front: Dan Lansberg, the executive chef of Dragonfly in the Hotel ZaZa, is a great guy. Talented chef, charitable, creative, personable, caring, kind. His food and his cooking reflect all that. So I wasn’t the least bit surprised that Lansberg’s new fall menu is full of vibrant, hearty dishes that make you happy, even if the one-sheet list is, by Landsberg’s own admission, a bit porcine heavy.

He complements a hefty shank of pork osso buco with pancetta-braised collard greens and a pool of grits enriched with just the essence of butternut squash. To prove that even the most humble ingredients can be sublime, Landsberg roasts then purees the squash, passes it through a fine-mesh sieve, and, finally, employs  only the the remaining drops of golden liquid as the base for the grits.

The small dining room has the feel of a campy parlor — plush, quirky, lit with those Edison bulbs that make everyone look like a flapper. Landsberg borrows from  NYC’ chef David Chang (Momofuku) for a dish with chewy housemade ramen noodles (Landsberg adds diver scallops and a bacon-dashi broth) and goes back to Chang again for starter of salty, sweet pork belly,  cooked first in a hot oven to crisp the pork then in a lower oven to render out much of the fat. Landsberg’s touch: a spoonful of  parsnip puree and a drizzle of Spanish chorizo oil.

The portions are just right, which means you’ll have plenty of room to savor any number of wines from an excellent collection curated by Alex Aland, Hotel ZaZa’s equally talented and affable food and beverage director. If Aland is working the floor– and it’s worth the effort to make sure he is — take a cue from any good sushi restaurant and go omakase (“I’m in your hands”). The guy will throw down some amazing bottles, even if you just want to try a glass or three.

Landsberg’s new menu is good, but Aland’s wine service is even better. Valet your car, get a room upstairs, and sleep late. Dragonfly is worth it.

Recently Published

the grape signboard
»

Exclusive: The Grape restaurant has a new top chef: Sarah Snow

Sarah Snow will take the spot as top chef at Greenville Avenue boîte ...

dee lincoln's restaurant -11
»

Dee Lincoln changing focus from burgers to steaks, opening a Dee Lincoln Steak in former La Duni space near Highland Park

Dee Lincoln is revamping her steak and burger concept again, ...

Dish-Dallas-Burger
»

Dish Restaurant to open second location at Hillcrest and Northwest Highway

Dish Restaurant is expanding to a second location at Northwest ...

ratatouille5-600-x-448
»

Restaurant Critic John Mariani has problems with Bon Appetit Magazine’s picks for Best New Restaurants, and he makes a slew of excellent points you might consider

Did you happen to look at Bon Appetit Magazine’s picks for its ...

att-stadium-tech
»

Dallas Cowboys and AT&T unveil interactive game day upgrades to AT&T Stadium

AT&T and the Dallas Cowboys today unveiled new ways they hope to ...

dfwi downtown dinner
»

Hot Date: Downtown Fort Worth Inc hosting Sunday Supper at one long table in downtown FW on Sunday, September 21

On Sunday, September 21, Downtown Fort Worth Inc. will host a ...

seabreeze
»

Hot Date: Sea Breeze to host seafood cooking class on August 31

Details are thinner than the clouds over Marina Del Rey today, but ...

Oktoberfest_LogoUpdate_RGB_F-001
»

Addison and chef Richard Chamberlain team up for annual Oktoberfest celebration, September 18-21

Chef Richard Chamberlain will reprise his role as head chef at ...

best-new-restaurants-nominees-final
»

Bon Appetit’s list of Best New Restaurants is out. In Dallas, CBD Provisions makes the cut

Food writer Andrew Knowlton released his list of nominees for Bon ...