This Way In >>

the campy interior of Dragonfly

Dragonfly at Hotel ZaZa intro’s new fall menu, but star is F&B guy Alex Aland


 

the campy interior of Dragonfly

Dan Landsberg is the chef of Dragonfly

Dragonfly's scallops with ramen noodles and bacon-dashi broth

Hotel ZaZa's F&B director, Alex Aland, is a really really good somm.

Ok, I’ll admit it right up front: Dan Lansberg, the executive chef of Dragonfly in the Hotel ZaZa, is a great guy. Talented chef, charitable, creative, personable, caring, kind. His food and his cooking reflect all that. So I wasn’t the least bit surprised that Lansberg’s new fall menu is full of vibrant, hearty dishes that make you happy, even if the one-sheet list is, by Landsberg’s own admission, a bit porcine heavy.

He complements a hefty shank of pork osso buco with pancetta-braised collard greens and a pool of grits enriched with just the essence of butternut squash. To prove that even the most humble ingredients can be sublime, Landsberg roasts then purees the squash, passes it through a fine-mesh sieve, and, finally, employs  only the the remaining drops of golden liquid as the base for the grits.

The small dining room has the feel of a campy parlor — plush, quirky, lit with those Edison bulbs that make everyone look like a flapper. Landsberg borrows from  NYC’ chef David Chang (Momofuku) for a dish with chewy housemade ramen noodles (Landsberg adds diver scallops and a bacon-dashi broth) and goes back to Chang again for starter of salty, sweet pork belly,  cooked first in a hot oven to crisp the pork then in a lower oven to render out much of the fat. Landsberg’s touch: a spoonful of  parsnip puree and a drizzle of Spanish chorizo oil.

The portions are just right, which means you’ll have plenty of room to savor any number of wines from an excellent collection curated by Alex Aland, Hotel ZaZa’s equally talented and affable food and beverage director. If Aland is working the floor– and it’s worth the effort to make sure he is — take a cue from any good sushi restaurant and go omakase (“I’m in your hands”). The guy will throw down some amazing bottles, even if you just want to try a glass or three.

Landsberg’s new menu is good, but Aland’s wine service is even better. Valet your car, get a room upstairs, and sleep late. Dragonfly is worth it.

Recently Published

dallas-chop-house-by-michaael-hiller-3
»

Hot Date: Dallas Chop House reopens Monday, November 3

One of downtown Dallas’ best restaurants, Dallas Chop House ...

blaine staniford, facebook
»

Blaine Stanford, chef at Grace in Fort Worth, to star in Food Network show November 19

Blaine Staniford, the top chef at Grace restaurant in Fort Worth, ...

Texas Monthly BBQ Festival 2012 c. Mike Hiller-238
»

Join a Texas Monthly BBQ road trip to three Dallas cue joints on November 2

Climb on board a 55 seat luxury bus with Texas Monthly BBQ editor ...

RACHAEL RAY SHOW
»

Cafe Momentum and founder Chad Houser to appear on Rachael Ray show

A couple of weeks ago, a secret tv taping took place at chef John ...

Breaking: Grant Morgan named exec chef at the Ranch at Las Colinas
»

Today is Chicken Fried Steak Day in Texas (really), and the best CFS in Texas is served at the Ranch at Las Colinas

I’m not gonna lie to you: Chicken Fried Steak Day is a real ...

oso food wine from fb
»

Oso Food & Wine to open Thursday, October 30

Just off the phone with Michael Cox, the restaurateur behind Oso Food ...

event space
»

Chef Kent Rathbun’s Blue Plate Kitchen reopens as The Kitchen at 6130

Well, this is an early Festivus Miracle: Rather than ...

brunch 102414
»

The Common Table rolls out new weekend brunch

Now that he’s taken over the kitchen at The Common Table, ...

oyster bash
»

Buried Treasure! A few tickets to Chefs for Farmers Oyster Bash this Sunday are now available

This cool fundraiser was sold out a few weeks ago. But event ...