Radar Range: The Best Dallas Chef You’ve Never Heard Of

He’s the best chef you’ve probably never heard of; that’s how I describe Michael Gaspard to those who ask me about my favorites.

His cooking is inventive, unpredictable, and polished. His slow-roasted waygu beef with cepe fondont and red wine glaze? As good–and unexpected–as it gets. Ditto his prime rib, duck, lamb, chicken. There’s almost nothing he can’t whip up that’s not world-class. When he gets in the kitchen, watch out: he’s going to knock your socks off.

Where is his restaurant? He doesn’t have one.

Gaspard works for the Pappas family of restaurants (Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, Pappadeaux, Pappasitos, among others), and his job is to travel to their concepts, creating and executing menus for special events like wine dinners.

The lastest occasion I’ve had to admire Gasard’s talent occurred last weekend, when he and Pappas Bros. execuchef James Johnson whipped up a dinner to pair with a half-dozen Robert Mondavi wines for one of Pappas Bros. occasional wine dinners. Chef Johnson is certainly no slouch–but when he teams with Gaspard, the duo is usually unflappable, which is what they proved with their olive oil-poached tuna.

Here was the menu:

Hors d’Oeuvres

1994 Robert Mondavi “To Kalon Vineyard”

Reserve Fume Blanc – from 3 Liter

First Course

olive oil poached TUNA

crispy chorizo, fingerling potato, crushed hazelnut

2007 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve”

Napa Valley Chardonnay

2006 Robert Mondavi Winery “Reserve”

Napa Valley Pinot Noir

Second Course