This Way In >>

crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

John Tesar hits an early home run with Spoon Bar and Kitchen


crudo sampler includes geoduck, lobster, uni, tuna, scallops and a whole lot of wow

a puff of smoke blankets smoked scallop crudo topped with salmon roe and herbs

red wine poached octopus, hand-rolled penne pasta, marinara and bone marrow

housemade squid ink pasta with little neck clams, nantucket bay scallops, lemon, garlic, olive oil

that amazing grilled octopus

big eye tuna, pounded thin, draped over foie gras, toasted baguette, plus a confetti of chives

Bad-boy chef John Tesar‘s new Dallas restaurant, Spoon Bar & Kitchen, really wowed me a couple of nights ago. Comfy seafoam hues, cozy alcoves, counter seating right up front, a chef’s counter in the back, a simple, two-page, seafood-centric menu that’s a crazy quilt of fresh fish and shellfish. And no drama. Service is crisp and precise, the bar man knows how to pour a stiff drink, and the kitchen operates with a quiet, organized buzz.

While I was eating dinner at Spoon, the electromagnetic spectrum was buzzing with the national broadcast of Top Chef Seattle, on which Tesar was the evening’s impetuous star. Yet there was nary a peep from Tesar about the show. No celebratory toasts, no throng of supporters crowding around a tv. In fact, there’s no tv in the restaurant. Instead, Tesar propped his glasses on his forehead and got down to business, cooking, grilling, plating, chatting.

On the way out, I asked Tesar about the show and why he hadn’t brought it up.

“This restaurant really is my focus,” he told me. “Nothing is more important to me than making Spoon successful.”

If Tesar can keep the same level of focus and precision I experienced at Spoon, his new seafood boite will rise to the top of the Dallas restaurant scene.

Of the may dishes I tried, one of my favorite dishes of the 20 or so I sampled: the charred octopus with crisp, sweet pork belly and pequillo peppers. The crudo sampler is the best raw seafood dish in town. But really, almost everything thrilled. Go. You will be impressed.

Spoon Bar & Kitchen, 8220 Westchester Drive, Dallas, (855) 947-7666.

Recently Published

coffee,jpg
»

Stumptown Coffee finds a home in Uptown at new Green House Market

Stumptown Coffee will be flowing like expensive imported water when ...

abacus-chef-chris-patrick-and-owner-bill-hyde-8-2
»

Following a brief closure for repairs, Abacus has reopened with Chris Patrick back on the range

Following a week (or so) of closure for what the company says were ...

shake shack lv
»

Shake Shack to open September 1 in Dallas’ Crescent complex in Uptown

Doesn’t that chicken sandwich look good? Great even? And that ...

kenny and pizza
»

Chef Kenny Bowers launches Kenny’s East Coast Pizza

Chef Kenny Bowers already makes one of the best burgers in Texas. ...

article image
»

Pizza king Jay Jerrier confirms he will open Cane Rosso at Dallas Cowboys’ The Star in Frisco

After eight pizza restaurants spread across Texas and two ice cream ...

Have you seen Deadliest Catch on TV? This king crab came from that boat
»

Samir Dhurandhar is cooking Indian food for Nick & Sam’s Sunday Supper this weekend. Here’s how to snag a seat.

The uber-talented chef and co-owner of Nick & Sam’s ...

hutchins bbq
»

Hutchins BBQ doubling the size of its flagship McKinney restaurant to meet booming demand

McKinney’s praiseworthy Hutchins BBQ is expanding their ...

John Tesar hopes to turn scallops into pearls with his new ventures
»

Here’s a Dallas wine dinner you shouldn’t miss: Hall Wines plus a scallop s’more. Yep, that sounds crazy (and weirdly delicious)

I don’t have any idea if a “scallop s’more” ...

stirr
»

Chef Chad Bowden leaving Culpepper Steakhouse for new Deep Ellum restaurant

Chad Bowden, the longtime chef of Culpepper Steakhouse in the Dallas ...