This Way In >>

Horseshoe Hill, new Fort Worth restaurant from chef Grady Spears, is an instant classic


horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-8 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-7 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-6 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-5 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-4 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-3 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-2 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-13 horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-11

Last weekend, a good friend and I found ourselves two knuckles deep into a jar of cheesy, beefy Bob Armstrong dip at Horseshoe Hill, the new Fort Worth Stockyards restaurant from chef Grady Spears.

Grady’s an old friend, so I knew to expect cowboy cooking — chicken fried steak, buttermilk biscuits, locally sourced steaks seared over an open fire. He’d told me the place was small, that the kitchen was more cramped than the backseat of a taxi, and that he cooks by feel rather than detailed recipes. I don’t think he’d know what to do with nasturtium petals and a pair of tweezers if you handed them to him.

I’m glad he doesn’t, because most of us would rather eat his kind of cooking than a plate of swirls and drizzles and smears anyway.  Crowds already pack his cramped dining room for the chicken fried steaks, their crackly crust blanketed by creamy black pepper gravy and, if you’re adventurous, topped with a queso-filled chile relleno or cheese enchiladas. He scribes a simple wine list on brown butcher paper hung beside the swinging screen door that separates the dining room from the kitchen. That’s him, slicing a thick dry-aged rib-eye steak from its subprimal slab on the kitchen counter.

horseshoe-hill-fw-copyright-michael-hiller-2

At a time when most other chefs are smearing and dolloping and swirling, Spears is busy cooking the kind of food you crave after a long day or before a big night. You owe it to yourself to check out Horseshoe Hill. But be forewarned: Expect a wait for a table. This kind of comfort food deservedly draws crowds.

More about Horseshoe Hill

204 W Exchange Ave., Fort Worth, (817) 882-6405. Open Wednesday – Sunday.

Recently Published

»

This new Meatstick X4 wireless cooking temperature probe has BBQ and sous vide superpowers

Some people claim they can poke a steak with their finger to know if ...

»

Meridian restaurant makes a significant menu pivot. What’s next?

The Meridian restaurant in Dallas’ The Village neighborhood ...

»

Team behind Fort Worth’s Grace restaurant opens an all-Italy dining spot called 61 Osteria

A new upscale Italian restaurant from a couple of ...

»

Dallas chef Dean Fearing’s son needs our help!

Dallas chef Dean Fearing’s 22-year-old son Campbell is battling an ...

»

Dallas loses big-deal steakhouse Maple & Ash, but owners settle dispute that impacts Monarch restaurant

Mired for months of legal battles over ownership, the owners of ...

»

Chicago’s Portillo’s is now open in DFW, selling its famous hot dogs and Italian beef sandwiches and chocolate cake shakes

Chicago’s Portillo’s restaurant has finally opened for ...

»

Nitro Burger in Trinity Groves delivers terrific burgers and boozy shakes

Anyone who’s been to Beto & Son in Trinity Groves knows Julian ...

»

Cozy up to crazy good Mexican food at El Carlos Elegante, the Dallas Design District newcomer

El Carlos Elegante is an elegant new Latin American restaurant in ...

»

Here’s a cool-weather gift for “Yellowstone” fans

Fans of the modern Western tv drama Yellowstone can take a fashion ...