Under direction of chef Chad Starling, Dallas Chop House has transformed itself into one of city’s best meateries
Chad Starling, the chef at Chop House for just seven months, has transformed the steakhouse into a local heavyweight that I would now rank among the city’s best meateries. Starling doesn’t cut any corners, and he unpacks a suitcase full of talent in the kitchen of the once-staid downtown restaurant. His prime steaks, sourced from Chicago’s Meats by Linz, are even better than those from Allen Bros. He overnights big eye tuna from Honolulu Fish Company, flies in wild Copper River salmon from Alaska, and uses local produce for his seasonal menu of sides. (Roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon, caramelized onions, Medjool dates and lemon zest may be on their way out, which is a shame, but his crawfish maque choux — a tousle of corn, red bell and poblano peppers, and crawfish — more than ably substitutes.)
Meals begin with complementary hot popovers as big as your head, progress to apps like spicy chipotle-spiked crab cakes and tender sous-vide pork cheeks amped up with tangy pickled ramps and a schmear of saffron-carrot puree, then run through steaks and seafood.
Skip dessert. Ask for another popover instead. Dallas Chop House, 1717 Main St #100, Dallas, (214) 736-7300.